Recipe of the Month - April
Asparagus season is in full swing and this asparagus starter is — omigod — the most delicious thing I've ever done with it: a creamy cheesey sort of inside of a quiche, the sort of savoury custards that the Italians call Sformato.
I got the recipe suggestion last week at the IFE, the International Food Exhibition in London, where producers and sellers from all over the world convene to offer up their wares. This recipe was from a little booklet put out by the Granda Padano (delicious Parmesan-ish cheese) people; I adapted. Interestingly, in the booklet, cooks are instructed to serve the sformato accompanied by a sauce of fresh raw tomatoes, olive oil, and basil, and a garnish of asparagus on the side. I prefer to leave it in the mold, so that you can spoon up the delicate but slightly cheese-browned edges... and the creamy texture which would be tampered with if the mold was inverted for presentation. It tastes just like the insides of the best asparagus quiche you could imagine.
Anyhow, waste no more time reading this page. Head to the market and snarf up whatever gorgeous asparagus is there, then head into the kitchen and whip up this recipe.
Sformato d'Asparagi (Italian Asparagus Delicious Baked Custard-Thing)
(Serves 4)- 2 shallots, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 lb (450 g) fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut into short lengths (weigh the asparagus after you trim its tough ends away; you may start with about 1 1/4 lbs to reach the 1 lb)
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1/2 c (120 ml) dry white wine
- 3/4 c (180 ml) cream
- 6 oz (170 g) Grana Padano (it was their recipe, after all) or any Parmesan-type cheese: dry asiago, romano locatelli, etc
- 2 eggs
- 2 egg yolks
- Pinch of nutmeg
- 3–4 Tbsp chopped chives
- A few Tbsp freshly grated Grana Padano (or Parmesan type cheese) for sprinkling
- Butter for buttering molds/mold
Turn the oven on to 400°F (200°C).
In a large frying pan, lightly sauté the shallots and garlic in the olive oil, only to soften not to brown them. When the shallots are softened, add the asparagus, stir together with the shallots, season with salt and pepper, and leave for 5 minutes or so, ("to get to know each other" says my Italian friend).
Pour in the white wine and about 1/4 cup (60 ml) water and cook over medium high heat until the asparagus is tender and the liquid is evaporated. Take care that it doesn't burn.If there is still liquid lurking in the pan, raise the heat and boil it off; should only take a few moments.
Spoon the asparagus into the food processor and whirl until it forms a puree; add the cream and whirl together, then the cheese and whirl again. Finally, add the eggs, egg yolks, pinch of nutmeg, final shake of salt and pepper, and give it another whirl. When mixture is finished being whizzed together, stir in the chives.
Butter your mold/s: use either 4- 8 ounce souffle, ramekins, or custard cups, or a 3 cups single souffle dish. I had really good results using a shallow baking dish that held up to 4 cups but was about 10 inches in diameter. Remember that the more shallow or small the container, the more quickly it will cook. If this overcooks it is dry and rubbery and not good.
Fill the buttered molds up about 3/4 of the way; sprinkle the tops with the extra grated cheese. Place the molds inside a larger pan, then fill the pan up with with hot water to reach about 3/4 of the way up on the outside of the ramekins or baking mold. This makes a bain marie, the hot water softening the shock of the ovens dry heat, resulting in a creamy more delicate consistency.
For a the smaller or more containers, bake the sformato for about 15 minutes, checking them at about 10 minutes for a progress update. They will be done when the edges and tops around the edges, maybe some of the top of the mold, are golden speckled. Also, it will feel almost firm (or at least not liquid) when you touch the top with your finger. Larger molds will take longer, 20-30 minutes.
Eat hot, with a spoon, and sigh.
© Marlena Spieler 2003