Recipe of the Month - April
Poireaux en Vinaigrette aux Betteraves
(Leeks with Tarragon-Beet Vinaigrette)
Serves 4
A rustic starter, a variation on the classic bistro dishes of leeks vinaigrette and beet salad. I've eaten this at Chardenoux, in Paris' 11th arrondissment.
- About 3 medium sized fat beets
- 2 teaspoon mild Dijon type mustard
- 2 tablespoons oil, either vegetable oil, extra virgin olive oil or combination of the two
- 1 tablespoon wine vinegar
- Few shakes of balsamic
- Pinch of sugar, salt to taste
- 2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
- 12 small to medium sized young spring leeks, spring-tender, or 6 medium large ones, trimmed of their tough greens and cleaned off all sand and grit between the leaves
- 2 green onions, including the tender greens, thinly sliced
Cook the beets either by roasting or steaming: to roast place in a baking dish, pour about 1/2 inch water on bottom of pan, then cover tightly with foil or lid. Place in oven and cook in about 350°F for an hour, depending on how big the beets are. Let cool; when cool enough to handle, slip the skins off and discard. To steam: place whole unpeeled beets in steamer with several inches of water at bottom, close lid tightly, and cook over medium high heat until beets are tender, about 40 minutes, depending on the size of the beets. The young beets of spring will be small and tender and cook far more quickly; any older heftier beets will take longer to grow tender. When cooked through — use a cake tester or a fork to pierce the beets — remove from heat and leave to cool. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins and discard. (If you live in Europe, you can purchase the beets already cooked; I find the French ones in a vacuum pack good for this dish).
Cook the leeks in water that has been lightly salted, or by steaming. Many people tie leeks together when they are cooking, and it does help keep the leeks from unravelling during their stint on the stove. I don't tie the leeks, partially because I'm not the most fastidious of cooks in this way — I don't often tie up the legs of a chicken either — and partially because I usually just can't find the kitchen string. I find, however, that if the leeks are simmered in a sufficient but not overly abundant amount of water, and at a gentle simmer rather than a rolling boil, the leeks stay together pretty nicely. The key to cooking them, whether boiling or steaming, is to catch them just as they are tender; overcooked and they will be limp and fall apart. The liquid from cooking the leeks, by the way, is delicious for soup. Don't throw it away.
When the leeks are cool, slice them carefully, crosswise, using a sharp knife into 1 inch or so length rounds. Set aside.
To make the beet vinaigrette: very finely chop the beets and place in bowl. Toss with the mustard, oil, wine and balsamic vinegar, sugar, salt to taste; mix well, then toss in the green onions and mix until it is chunky and relish-like.
Arrange sliced leek on each plate, and nap each with a few spoonfuls of the beetroot vinaigrette, drizzling the liquid and scattering the tiny cubes of beet. Serve.
© Marlena Spieler 2004